Day 18-23: Nelson to Lethbridge, AB

Greetings friends, family, and onlookers!

WE’RE IN ALBERTA.

When I last wrote, Benn and I were taking a very relaxing rest day in Nelson, where we cruised the town, lounged about, and ate some good food. I find Nelson interesting in that it seems to be a strangely preserved slice of city amidst a long winding road of not much more than truck stops and convenience stores.  To me it felt like a genuine refuge of old hippies and artists, masked by a veneer of “authenticity” tourism, very different from what you see in other tourist spots of BC, say Osoyoos or Kelowna. But maybe I’m just thinking into it. Perhaps most unsettling is an undercurrent of homelessness or substance abuse, that one wouldn’t expect to find in a small place. Overall my impression is of a place so relaxed and idyllic that it is all too easy to get stuck.

Before I forget, I want to give a plug to the only other cyclists we’ve really mingled with thus far, the boys from Qualicum BC embarking to Ottawa on their project Pedal for Parkinson’s. We first met these guys whilst hauling up through Manning Park, and were impressed by their physique, fancy bikes, and support vehicle, not to mention they were doing it all for a great cause- all the money they raise will go to BC Parkinson’s research. We ran into them again in Rock Creek (east of Osoyoos- and only by the sheer luck that they rested there did we catch up to them- they are fast) where we found out that one of the team members has onset Parkinson’s, and finds cycling a really therapeutic treatment. Amazing! I doubt we’ll run into them again- they’re probably in Ottawa by now!- But it was great to meet other cyclists with a cause.

Anyway, back to our trail. After Nelson we took the Kootenay Bay ferry, thereby skipping the Kootenay Pass and riding on the world’s longest free ferry! Boo-yah!

The next few days were spent winding around the East Kootenays, through Creston, Yahk, Cranbrook, and Fernie. Though the maps we had foretold a fairly smooth road, I remained wary, as any previous day we had told ourselves would be “easy” was not. But really, the hills didn’t come. The ride from Creston to Crowsnest, over the course of three days, was extremely pleasant (aside from a freak hailstorm outside of Cranbrook. One minute, dry. Next minute, MONSOON!). So pleasant I wrote a country-folk ballad about the town called Yahk.

Energy was running well and though there were a few nights we didn’t quite make our planned campsite (or planned campsite was full due to Canada Day…) we still stayed right on schedule, crossing Crowsnest Pass and into Alberta without any problem! Quite a relief after all the climbing we did in the first half.

And so suddenly we were in the Rocky Mountains. Man, they are majestic. The hype is not for nothing! Very rocky. Some of the cliffs reminded me a lot of the formations I’ve seen down in Arizona, except the ones here are grey, not red.

We camped right at the pass at the foot of one of these said monuments. It was very rewarding to finally be in the Rockies/Alberta, except when Benn accidentally dumped some just-boiled tea on his own head. Do not fear, he’s okay!

The next morning, with forecasts of high SW winds, we set to the highway and were practically blown the entire 160km from the border to Lethbridge. I have to admit some serious anxiety despite our good time- the clouds ahead of us were all swirly and ominous-looking. I nearly had a panic attack when we stopped for lunch because I was convinced we were running straight into a tornado. However, Benn, who is more versed in such signs, assured me we had nothing to worry about (I still think it was a sky worthy of pouring hell-spawn down to earth, but I calmed down).

Overall, it was very fast, flat day- except for the last 15km, where the road turned and what was once a nice tailwind became a very confusing and tiring cross-wind. We arrived in Lethbridge quite tired and ready for a break.

Tomorrow we hit the road again towards Medicine Hat, another 160km. We may make it the whole way, depending on the wind, but regardless we will be in Saskatchewan within the next three days! I can’t believe how fast we’re flying, compared to our time in BC. But as a nice lady in Coleman, AB said, “You’re on the prairies now.”

Now that we’ve had some time here in the lovely Lethbridge Pulbic Library, Benn has put together a GoogleMap of our route through Canada. Check it out if you’re interested, especially if you have any trips coming up! Enjoy!

View Larger Map

If you’re observant you will see there are some photos in this blog! Yes indeed, the disposable camera I entrusted to Benn has been developed and uploaded to the net. I have a digital with me, but for one reason or another, it doesn’t like to connect to these public computers. I will keep trying. But for now, enjoy Benn’s view of BC! Here is the “BIKE BIKE BIKE!” set in my flickr account, where you are more than welcome to peruse the uploads we make over the course of the trip.
Also, if you like reading and want to get updates, but down want to keep checking every day (though you could do that too as it will boost my traffic ratings), please feel free to subscribe, where you will get a nice little email telling you of a new post. I’m not sure when we’ll update next, perhaps somewhere in Saskatchewan, perhaps in Winnipeg!

Thanks for reading!

love,
Emma & Benn