Days 29-36: Regina, SK to Winnipeg, MB to Detroit, MI

Yep, you read right. We’re here! But the travels are far from over.

Last you heard, we had a relaxing rest day in Regina, Saskatchewan. The next morning we hit the freeway bright and early to weave our way out of the urban sprawl of strip-malls and onto the open road. Just as we joined said open-road, we found ourselves joined by an unexpected companion- Another cyclist!

Through a series of bicycle-style small talk (talk for a bit, move up or back to the other person, move up when you want a break, switch switch switch) we discovered that our fellow biker-Duncan- had not only been on the road as long as we had, but from the same start as us. He lived about a block away from Benn’s apartment in Vancouver. Talk about a small world.

Duncan was a more than amicable person and adept cyclist, and thus we became a trio-pelaton against a most unpleasant cross breeze. We stopped for the night, a bit earlier than expected but completely exhausted from the wind, and split a campground. Though Benn and I had been working together remarkably well, we were both ecstatic to be traveling with someone new- that is, in my opinion, one of the best things about traveling in the first place. And so the next few days proceeded with a new energy and excitement. Our travels moved along with great efficiency and enjoyment, due to favourable winds and good company.

We were going strong, a mere days’ ride from Winnipeg, when unfortunately, moments after a late afternoon’s pitstop, we hit an unexpected patch of gravel. We had heard rumours of Manitoba’s lack of road shoulder, but up to that point had thought it myth. Suddenly, the road changed imperceivably from pavement to very deep gravel. Taken by surprise (read: panic), I tried to control my bike and get it back onto the road, not knowing that this is the exact thing you’re not supposed to do. Benn was yelling to just slow down but I was beyond hearing. Like a startled deer I lept into the headlights instead of away- and bit dirt, almost literally. While things certainly could have been worse, the gravel got away with a good bite out of my left knee, leaving it very swollen and resembling uncooked hamburger. We walked (hobbled) the 500 metres or so back to the motel we had just left to apply the necessary First Aid and get a room for the night. Unfortunately they were out of rooms, but did generously allow us to set up camp on their front lawn. We decided to play the next day by ear.

The next day we got up at the usual time. Cautiously I got on my bike and had a little test ride in the parking lot, and decided I could push it that last 150 km to Winnipeg. The truth is, my knee seemed to feel better the more I moved it- any pause and stiffness would set in. We made it to the perhiphery of Winnipeg it fairly good time, but still had to make it downtown- a longer feat than the three of us anticipated. Finally, after navigating the traffic-strewn sprawl, we made it to a very impressive Hosteling International compound and toasted our achievement over a pitcher of the local brew. Duncan had a friend in town and so our travels together were over. But on the bright side, he’s in the neighbourhood at home!

Benn and I agreed to take the next morning off before cycling south the the US border, with the intention of meeting his parents in Minnesota. You see, the annual Scher Family beach gathering was to take place the next week in North Carolina, and we realized there was just no way we could cycle to Michigan and leave in time. But as the morning wore on, our fatigue was not wearing off and we realized we needed the rest day in Winnipeg. Time for Plan B.

After trying out a few different combinations on the Greyhound website, we found there was a fairly cheap bus the next morning to Grand Forks, North Dakota, a little over 100 km West (70 mi) of where we originally planned to meet his folks. With a call home, we got the O.K., and went out to the Winnipeg airport to the Greyhound station (conveniently this was only a 20 minute bus ride from the downtown).

Tickets successfully booked, we spent the afternoon in the Forks, a public market situated at the meeting of the Red and Assiniboine rivers. It reminded me strongly of Granville Island in Vancouver, except it had much better parking and a free bus from downtown to access it. After a sleepy, touristy afternoon we headed back to the hostel where we cooked the rest of our traveling food, an epic Mac-Quinoa and Cheese (and red pepper and broccoli, yum), only a little sad that it was truly the last night of such pasta indulgence. There wasn’t going to be any more 160-km days. The bike trip was over.

I remember feeling a little disappointed that we broke from our original plan of traversing half of Ontario and arriving at Benn’s childhood home via Sault St. Marie. It was a cycling trip, goshdarnit, not a cycling-bussing-driving trip. But I have since realized that the 2,500 km we did cycle is nothing to shrug at, and we are both very pleased with our accomplishment.

Anyway, we arrived at the Greyhound station bright an early in order to pack up our bikes for our 9 am departure. We got it together pretty quickly and deposited the bike boxes next to the bus, as instructed. After a security check, we boarded the bus, excited to be heading to America. The border customs went smoothly, and we arrived in Grand Forks around noon, thinking we would kill some time in town in wait for Benn’s parents. To our surprise they were already there waiting for us! Through an amazing journey from their home in Rochester Hills, MI, they had driven all the previous day only to find that their expected stop for the night was completely out of vacancy, due to an unfortunate congruence of dog and air conventions on the same weekend. Driving through the night, they finally stopped at a Wal-Mart, which, as it turns out, is a great place to park your car overnight in order to get some sleep (hey, it’s open 24hrs and has public washrooms, what more could one need?).

Indeed sorry that they had had such a rough night, but certainly happy to be on the road home, I grabbed our panniers as they were unloaded from the bus. The driver asked, “Is that all?” as he was anxious to get the current stop loaded and moving on.
I replied yes, indeed, the two bikes were ours.
“What bikes? I didn’t load any bikes.”
Uuhhhh….

As it turns out, our bicycles did not make it onto the bus. Though assured by a Greyhound shipper that morning that he would “take care of them,” it seems what we should have done was prompt the driver himself to load them. Not the case. Our bikes were still in Winnipeg.

A cold finger of dread prodded at my heart at the thought of losing our trusty steeds, but in his magnanimous and ever-positive way, Benn reassured me and we went straight to the bus office, where we called Winnipeg and arranged for the bikes to be sent directly to the Detroit station. Assuaged but still wary of bus-beauraucracy, we piled in an set out East.

As it turns out, being confined to a car-sized space with your partner’s parents is actually a very pleasant and comfortable way to get to know them. Its just the driving for 17 hours that really gets you (double that for Benn’s parents!). But finally, finally, finally we arrived safe and sound at the Purcell family home in Rochester Hills, MI.

Thus far things have been very relaxed. Benn and I took trips to Salvation Army, where we aquired full summer wardrobes for our trip to North Carolina and stay in Michigan. We’ve enjoyed wonderful home-cooked meals by Benn’s parents, Dena and Dean, watched stages of the Tour de France here, baseball there, and have even started a running regime. Benn’s brother Noah has just arrived from Beijing, and all the necessary bags are being loaded into the car for the day and a half drive to Wrightsville Beach tomorrow. Did I mention our bikes arrived safe and sound to the Detroit bus station and now are camping out in the Purcell garage? Whew. Now its time to relax and enjoy the beach!

Love,

Emma and Benn
(ps- now that I have some computer time, there are lots of new photos up on my Flickr. Go see our trip!)